Published on November 2nd, 2013 | by The Perfume Expert
Diorissimo by Dior Review
Diorissimo by Dior is a masterpiece symphony of scent! A graceful dance of delicate Spring blossoms wafting through in a morning breeze. Exact and perfect in its simplicity and stark beauty. Pure and uncomplicated yet intoxicating and dreamy. It centers around Dior’s favorite and lucky flower, the Lilly-of-the-Valley. And it is, in my opinion, the greatest Lilly-of-the-Valley scent ever created! This is what perfume is all about. The image of utter girliness. Prim and proper. The epitome of femininity. And the epitome of a hopeful Spring!
Although the scent on its own is uncomplicated, to review Diorissimo is not as simple as it would seem. This is one of the few occasions where two reviews are needed for the same fragrance! This is because it is also one of the rare moments where the edt version of the fragrance is a much different scent compared to the edp version.
Usually, an Eau de Parfum, is just the same fragrance but a stronger version, around 10-20% aromatic notes; whereas the Eau de Toilette usually has a higher alcohol content and only 5-10% aromatic notes. However, in some cases, perfumers decide to change the formula slightly or alter the concentrations of notes between the edp and edt, and Diorissimo is an obvious example of just this.
Diorissimo is a bit of a paradox. Firstly, all Lilly-of-the-Valley scents have to be chemically produced as it is near impossible to naturally harvest the actual fragrance oils from the Lilly-of-the-Valley flower. So from the start, Lilly-of-the-Valley perfumes are a bit of an enigma. But an even more mysterious confusion arises when comparing Diorissimo edp with the edt.
You see, Diorissimo edp uses Jasmine as the heart note which is said to carry the fragrance; whereas the edt uses Lilly-of-the-Valley as the heart note. So reading this, you’d assume the the edt would smell more like Lilly-of-the-Valley than the edp; but that is not the case. To the normal senses (I’m speaking about the general public not trained perfumers) Diorissimo edp smells more like a Lilly-of-the-Valley scent even though it’s only just a top note.
Why is this? You may ask. I believe it’s the strong and pleasing carrying power of the Jasmine. I think that the Jasmine compliments the Lilly-of-the-Valley so well that it seems to hold on to it throughout the scent journey and its seems to stick in our noses as a lasting note adding more depth to the Lilly-of-the-Valley. Lilly-of-the-Valley as a heart note itself is a lot greener and fresher than what we would assume the flower to smell like. In addition, Lilly-of-the-Valley, in reality, is quite an indolic scent (meaning it smells slightly like decaying flowers which on its own can be slightly off-putting). So that’s perhaps why we associate, or our noses want to associate, Lilly-of-the-Valley with the edp more than the edt, even though it’s in a lesser quantity.
Simply put. Diorissimo edt is a light & airy, green, and organic Lilly-of-the-Valley. Diorissimo edp is a more deep, sensual, and soft Lilly-of-the-Valley.
The edt version of Diorissimo is like an aloof debutant. She arrives with a vibrancy, it’s hard to take your eyes off of her as she brightens the room with a fresh, crisp, effervescent floral. Her spark of sumptuous Ylang-Ylang remains but you are instantly engulfed in the intoxicating scent of the blooms and stems of Lilly-of-the-Valley. But as hopeful as these flowers are, they’re fleeting and she fades so quickly, leaving the room with nothing but a trail of intoxicating Jasmine in her wake. And as beautiful as this fragrance journey is, it only lasts a mere 30 minutes.
Diorissimo edt is a phenomenon all to itself. A gorgeous but not-sustaining waltz of white blossoms. I would love to recommend the edt, especially to those who love indolic scents, but the lasting power is so fickle that I would find it hard to believe that anyone could make use out of it.
But the edp version on the other-hand lasts a lot longer. If the edt is the aloof debutant, than Diorissimo edp is the grown-up princess, or at least, the equally captivating woman that lingers in the room a little longer; perhaps even long-enough to make you fall in love. Starting off straight away with a breath of delicate Lilly-of-the-Valley and then quickly blending into the heart of the fragrance, dreamy Jasmine that lingers for quite some time. The edp instantly adds a more mature tone as compared to the fresh-faced top notes of the edt. And unlike the edt, the edp dries down to a warm and sensuous mix of Jasmine and Musk but hints at the Lilly-of-the-Valley subtly underneath.
Although, both edp and edt Diorissimos are Lilly-of-the-Valley fragrances, in my opinion, only the edp is a noticeable and lasting Lilly-of-the-Valley. Combined with sensuous Jasmine and smooth Musk, Diorissimo edp is a more palatable take on Lilly-of-the-Valley. A more creamy and dreamy version of the scent. As brilliant as the whirl-wind of perfume intricacy the edt is, I definitely would recommend the edp over it simply because it is a more rich and deep Lily-of-the-Valley and one that lasts longer than a blink-of-an-eye.
Although Diorissimo in either version is such a unique and intricate fragrance composition, that it would be worth trying both. It’s a rare education on note combining that will leave you mystified and intrigued at the same time.
But perhaps I have already said too much. Perhaps Diorissimo is better left alone; un-analyzed and just enjoyed for the beautiful enigma that it is!
To find out more about the difference between an Eau de Parfum and an Eau de Toilette, read my article here:
Buy it on Amazon here for up to 36% OFF the RRP
The Perfume Expert Rating
Summary: The greatest Lilly-of-the-Valley scent ever created! This smells like Spring in a bottle. Girly. Feminine. Pretty. Dainty. Hopeful. Delicate. It's beautiful but a bit of an enigma as the edt and the edp smell so very different. If you want a soft, deep, and sensual Lilly-of-the-Valley then go for the more mature edp. But if you love that organic, indolic, greenness of fresh Lilly-of-the-Valley then go for the edt. But beware. The edt has poor longevity. And I will add another warning. Lilly-of-the-Valley is sometimes one of those scents that we love, but can only handle so much of it, so although you'll fall into a L.O.T.V trance when you first smell it, it may be too much after about an hour so use sparingly.